Is there any more perfect temperature than 22C under blue skies, and is there any more perfect way to spend a perfectly blue 22C Sunday than over Remutaka Hill into the Wairarapa for a day of wineries? No, I don’t think so either.
While I’ve shown you a little around Martinborough before (see this post), first, a little about the area. The Wairarapa region is located in the south of the North Island – to the north and east of Wellington … does that even make sense? In any case, it’s a part of the north island that I really love – and at just an hour out of Wellington, it’s absolutely accessible from the city. (One time I caught the train across for a solo excursion, but that’s a whole other story …)
Anyways, there’s wine, olives, and plenty of places serving great food – it’s no wonder that I love it!
Greytown
Our first stop was Greytown – a very pretty town with New Zealand’s most complete street of wooden Victorian buildings. (Don’t say you don’t learn anything on this blog).
Established in 1854 by settlers from Wellington who were looking for small and affordable places to farm (and presumably land not located halfway up a mountain) Greytown (named ever so imaginatively after Governor Sir George Grey) was also New Zealand’s first planned inland town.
It’s a lovely town full of cafes and some very tempting shops.
Somehow I managed to get around without buying more than this hat. I do love a hat.
Margrain Vineyard
While the world knows about Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Central Otago’s Pinot Noir, the Wairarapa is responsible for just 1% of the wine produced in New Zealand. With its warm summers and cold winters, the climate is much like that in Burgundy, so the wines that grow well there – Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – grow well here. In fact, it’s in this region that the first Pinot Noir grapes were planted.
Anyways, enough of the history, let’s go tasting!
Moy Hall Wines
Moy Hall was our lunch spot – and very good it was too. We shared pretty much most of the menu between the four of us – my favourite dish being the tomato, fennel and stracciatella.
The Runholder
This place used to be Te Kairanga Wines and the last time we visited (5 years ago) the tastings were done in a very pretty white fibro cottage and we bought a bottle and had a picnic in the gardens. (The pics below are from March 2019).
Since then they’ve had a full renovation/rebranding/the works and emerged as The Runholder with a slick new restaurant and tasting room selling their wines and the gins distilled here – Lighthouse gin.
It’s all very slick and new and impressive, but lacks the charm of how it was … in my humble opinion. Such is progress …
Next time: the foodie edition …
And Anyways... 
Hi Jo, love your post. We have always suggested that the South Island is more picturesque than the North but you are changing my mind. I think a revisit of the North Island might be in order. Looks like a great day out with friends and the weather picture perfect. x
I love the Coromandel and the Wairarapa – beautiful parts of the north island.
We would love to revisit NZ one day and will definitely be taking your advice on places to see in the North Island. Thanks for linking up to #WWWhimsy and I’m sure Min is very grateful for everyone’s support during her absence.
The food at The Runholder is supposed to be excellent. Martinborough Vineyard is also housed there – I think it might be to do with economies of scale housing the three things together?
Yeah they had all 3 ranges there … it’s a slick operation and the restaurant was very full.
Oh and yes I love the Waiarapa too as you know! Greytown is such a lovely wee place.
I could seriously have gone mad in those homeware stores…
Oh yes!
Your photos are amazing, Jo, and that hat is absolutely adorable!
That hat got such a workout over the next couple of weeks!
That sounds like a really lovely and delicious day!
It’s a really beautiful part of the country.
Umm travel writing…who are you pitching your posts to?? You so need to be doing more of this. You tell amazing stories accompanied by gorgeous photos and not to mention to FOOD part. So glad to see you and G and friends enjoying the rewards of working hard…and then stopping. Denyse x
Thanks Denyse. We try and make the most of wherever we are.
Now that looks like a really rather perfect day out!
Jo, I love these posts and will be returning to them to follow your recommendations if I ever travel to the same destination. You always seem to smell out the best restaurants. Thanks for sharing
awww thanks for that. I can’t take the credit for these ones as my bestie was driving us about.
Great fun joining you Jo, I love your hat and all that beautiful blue sky and yummy food!!
I adore that hat!
Greytown looks just beautiful as does the scenery and the food. Can’t wait to re-visit NZ.
cheers
sherry #WWWhimsy
It’s such a beautiful country
What a charming spot!! I really don’t know NZ…#WWWhimsy
I find something new to love every time.
I’m not a wine drinker but the description of your day and the photos make me think I could drink lemonade and be happy in that space!