Greenwich

Wednesday, October 26, 2022

Grant’s birthday and our last full day in London…

Off to Greenwich this morning via the Thames Uber Clipper at Embankment Pier – which we walked to rather than catch the tube. It’s half-term holidays so the boat was mobbed with schoolkids but we scored a seat out the back for a lovely ride up the river.

Once at Greenwich, we spent ages wandering around the old naval college, but a graduation ceremony was taking place at the university so there were areas we couldn’t access… no matter…

The Painted Hall was breathtaking. Designed in the early 18th century, it features 40,000 square feet of walls and ceilings covered in images of kings, queens and mythological creatures.

The hall was originally intended as an eating space for the Greenwich Pensioners who lived at the Royal Hospital, as it was called then, but it soon because a tourist attraction and was used for dining only on special occasions. And it’s breathtaking.

Just as Chelsea Hospital was built for soldiers who had been injured or grown old in the service of the crown, Greenwich Hospital was created for seamen in 1695. Those former sailors and marines who lived in the hospital were known as ‘in-pensioners’ and those who drew a pension but did not live on-site were known as ‘out-pensioners’.

Pensioners were admitted from 1705 and originally wore a uniform of dark grey with a blue lining and brass buttons. The colour of the uniforms changed to brown and then blue. Pensioners who broke the rules were forced to wear a yellow coat known as the ‘canary’ and make amends with extra chores.

Almost 3,000 sailors were living in the Hospital by 1815.

We’d decided we couldn’t be faffed walking up to the meridian or the observatory but instead enjoyed wandering around the streets and markets.

Grant had his heart set on pie and liquor at Goddards Pies, a family-run shop that’s been serving pie, eels, mash, and liquor (and pretty much only that) since 1890. And because it’s his birthday I wasn’t going to deny him that.

Pie, mash and eel shops have been in London since the early 19th century when eels were plentiful in the river and pie fillings cheap. The parsley liquor would have once been made from the stock the eels were prepared in but these days isn’t.

Grant chose the liquor while I opted for gravy. Grant opted for the double mash (which was actually four mounds of mash) and it defeated him. I went for the single mash (two mounds) and it defeated me – but then I’m not a fan of mushy peas and am fussy about my mash. The pie, however, was good.

Back at the pier there was a massive queue for the return Uber boat (seriously, what’s with that name?) so we caught the sightseeing boat instead.

Sure, it was £9.30 each instead of £8.70 but sitting upstairs in the breeze with the Thames before us was much more enjoyable than squeezing in with the schoolkids and commuters – and a great way to see the river.

Alighting at Westminster we chose to walk back to the hotel rather than catch the tube… yes, not taking a handbag was a fabulous decision as far as my bad back was concerned. Besides, after that pie we needed the walk…

Grant’s birthday dinner was at Boisdales in Belgravia. It’s quite posh and has a cigar room upstairs and a jazz bar downstairs. The wine list is massive and the whisky list even longer. We’re here though because they specialise in Scottish food and produce and Grant is, after all, Scottish.

We shared some oysters to start and for entree Grant opts for the haggis while I choose the cullen skink (a creamy fish soup). For mains, Grant stays with offal and I have the pheasant kiev. It’s expensive and the service is rather diffident, but the food is fabulous.

Tomorrow evening we head home and while we’re both dreading the long journey, we’re also missing home comforts and ready to go home.