Bakewell to Tetbury

Tetbury market

Day 9 – Wednesday, October 5, 2022

With few exceptions, we haven’t really been eating brekky as such this trip, but as this was a B&B we’re offered the full English this morning – served at the pub, The Manners. It’s nice for a change and I’m very happy to see my egg served on half a Derbyshire oatcake. I’m even happier to know that the ones I made (see this post) tasted pretty similar. Well chuffed, I am.

As an aside, I was wondering why the pub was called The Manners and why there are other references to the name in Bakewell. It’s because 900-year-old Haddon Hall, which is situated just 2 miles outside town, was the former home of the Dukes of Rutland, whose surname happens to be Manners. These days the current duke’s younger brother, Lord Edward Manners, lives here with his wife while the Duke resides in Belvoir Castle in Leicestershire.

Anyways, the Duke’ of Rutland’s estate still owns quite a bit of Bakewell and beyond, and Haddon Hall is open to the public between April and October. Something for the useless book of knowledge.

It’s really pelting down this morning so the friend I was supposed to be catching up with was unable to get here. While disappointing it means we can get on the road a little earlier and have time to drive past and photos in the rain of Chatsworth House (aka Pemberley in the BBC adaptation of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice).

Chatsworth House, just under 5 miles outside of Bakewell, has been in the Cavendish family since the 1500s and is the seat of the Duke of Devonshire. One small town, two dukedoms.

I wanted to visit last time we were here, but with limited time in Derbyshire, it was a toss-up between spending a few hours looking around a stately home or spending that time tootling around seeing some fantastic landscapes. We opted for the latter with no regrets – the Peak District is spectacularly beautiful. Given that the house doesn’t open to visitors until 10am and we have a long drive in the rain ahead of us, we’ll miss out again. Next time…maybe…

The estate farm shop was open, however, so we were able to pick up some supplies for Tetbury.

The drive down was just feral – driving wind and rain, limited visibility. Grant did so well – I would have been a nervous wreck. It’s a long drive (by English standards) – almost 250km – and he was exhausted by the time we reached Studley and ready to stop at the first pub we found – which was The Boot Inn.

The Boot Inn is a gastro pub with a great menu and fabulous decor. It’s also very busy considering it was Wednesday lunchtime. Tomato soup (again) and a shared steak sandwich.

Replenished and refreshed we’re back on the road and the sun is (thankfully) out. We still have 100km to drive but it’s not long before we’re in The Cotswolds and seeing more familiar views and villages.

We have one final stop before reaching Tetbury – at our old fave Jolly Nice Farmshop at Frampton Mansell. It’s a place that, back in 2015, inspired my book Wish You Were Here. Since we were last here just before Christmas in 2019 they’ve expanded again – also adding drive-through for covid. One thing that hasn’t changed is their ice creams. We share a scoop of damson; it’s tart and delicious.

It’s late afternoon by the time we arrive in Tetbury. Our Airbnb cottage is perfectly located, tucked away behind the high street, and everything the ad said it would be. It does, however, feel a little…mean…no warmth or generosity. I suspect this is because it’s managed by a real estate company rather than by the owners. There are a few tea bags and some coffee left out for us and that’s pretty much it. The towels are small and thin, there’s a broken chair in the sitting room tied up with string, and the thermostat is locked away in the cleaner’s cupboard so we can’t turn the heating on. I call and they reluctantly tell me where to find the keys – at which time I also find the small single bag of wood for the wood heater. There are, however, plenty of instructions about how we have to strip the beds, which colour laundry bags we put towels into and which the sheets need to be in (and where they must be left), when to wheel the garbage bins out etc etc etc.

Having said that, it’s quiet, I love its character, and our bed is comfy…but check out the red bathroom!

We spent a lovely week here in Tetbury at Christmas in 2019. Since then there have been some changes in the high street – the cheese shop we loved has closed for example – but it’s great to be back.

We stop for a beer at The Snooty Fox, and dinner tonight is at The Ormond… Grant had Beef Bourguignon and I have a Thai Green Curry with all the spice I’ve been craving. No pics…

Tomorrow should be a big (and emotional) day – we’re off to Gloucestershire and a memorial for Grant’s mum…

You’ll find all the posts from this trip here.

Author: Jo

Author, baker, sunrise chaser

22 thoughts

  1. Hi Jo – another wonderful post! I love your travel posts – beautiful photographs and wonderful descriptive words on what you saw and did plus of course all the lovely tidbits of history! I doubt my NZ posts will be anywhere as good as your travel posts! lol I hope I get to England one day (and Europe) as all these little villages and towns would be divine to experience and explore. Meanwhile though, it’s really quite enjoyable travelling vicariously through your posts! Looking forward to the next one, even though it will be emotional! xo

  2. A very satisfying post, Jo! Lots of good food, stunning views, and those pumpkins (and other squash! Brought back happy memories of the driving tours through the UK countryside from decades ago. It really feels like it is time for another driving holiday!

  3. Hi Jo – good on Grant for not only driving in a foreign country – but doing it in horrible weather. Your little bnb looks lovely but it’s interesting how a little stinginess or generosity makes the difference between a good stay and a great stay. I enjoyed all your English photos and the cosy shops and pubs. It’s like being on tour with you as the guide.

  4. Absolutely stunning photos, Jo. I swear that I wanted to walk into every single one of them. Okay, so maybe not the red bathroom…but that was no fault of your photography Wonderful post!

  5. The ‘shops’ are amazing – just stunning set ups – and I really love the modern sculpture against the classical mansion (Stately Home? – Chatsworth House seems understated for the building!!) These English Villages are magnificent. I hope the memorial went well. It must be hard to be away and then suddenly immersed in the loss and grief or family where the loss is highlighted by their absence (I’m not saying it well but I’m guessing you’ll be at a differnt grief stage to everyone else, and that will add an extra painful layer to it all). Take care. But I am loving the photos. (I’ve just written all that and then seen this was in Oct. I did think you’d been but then decided I was mixing you up because my brain is useless at the moment. But I’ve written it all so it may as well stay! Ha!)

    1. I’m blogging the trip each week, straight from my travel journal, but it is a tad weird that we’ve been home for 3 months now…

  6. How funny – we’re going to Belvoir Castle in a couple of months, it’s not far from us at all. I must say England does have some great pubs and it looks like you’ve found some of the finest! What a shame about the AirBnb – the tea and coffee sitch is especially tight! And that red bathroom! Looking forward to the next instalment!

  7. How lovely to be able to follow more of your trip to the UK! I absolutely adore the red bathroom. So cool, and the kitchen is just wow! But it’s very odd they didn’t let people turn the heating on, and all the “shoulds” and less “welcome” etc..
    The towns and shops look lovely, I love the old-style character of many of the buildings.

  8. Even with the rain it sounds like a wonderful day; all those shops look so cute and inviting.

  9. Hi Jo, I savour these posts as they are beautiful in photos, words and imagery! I feel I’m travelling with you. The red bathroom is a hoot 🙂

  10. You are my link to my UK heritage via your blog…thank you for the images, the sharing of stories and the love I read via your words. You do ‘belong’ there in so many ways! It was great to see your post shared for this week’s Wednesday’s Words and Pics. I am grateful for your support. I hope to see you next week too. Thank you. Denyse.

  11. Yes in the UK 250 kms is a long way. Not so much in Canada or Auz. English villages are so charming and your photos are absolutely amazing. I love the sky one with the church and cemetery. As to the accommodations – hit and miss isn’t it?

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