Day 6, Sunday October 2, 2022

After a really good night’s sleep last night, we were both ready for an early morning walk around Grassington.

Today is all about two things: a pilgrimage to Haworth for all things Bronte, and finding somewhere for Sunday lunch.

Haworth is just 37kms away, but by the time we’re past Skipton it’s obvious we’re no longer in the Dales. This part of Yorkshire is bleaker and a different sort of scenic. These are towns formed by woollen mills and coal and the heritage of this industry is everywhere. There were, I’ve read, over 1000 coal pits in Yorkshire at the time of the Brontes.

As for Haworth, talk about a steep town! And when you think that back in the day when everyone walked everywhere they’d be bounding up and down these steep hills just to get to work… yep, buns of steel.

We parked just out of town and had a lovely walk along a path that popped us out at the churchyard, with The Parsonage just behind that.

Grant (naturally) was not keen to visit the Parsonage Museum so while I did, he wandered down the high street – and back up again, his Fitbit registering a ridiculous number of floors climbed.

As for me, it was special to see where the Brontes lived and worked, and amazing to think they created what they did in the small space they were all working together in.

The rooms are small, but then so, apparently, were they. Charlotte’s dress on display was tiny. In fact, even the letters were small – tiny handwriting on tiny pieces of paper.

While the main parts of the house were orderly, Bramwell’s room had been styled as if he had just left it – his scribblings and art lying around, creative in a wild chaotic manic way.

Back on the road, we drove through several mill towns. This part of Yorkshire has a definite personality of its own. It’s almost as if the smoke from the mills and the pits have darkened the stone and has seeped into the houses. It puts perspective around how hard life must have been, although it sounds trite to say it like that, and it really helped bring (in particular) Charlotte Bronte’s novels to life. I could picture scenes in The Professor and Shirley.

We’d decided to wing it regarding Sunday lunch and stop anywhere that looked promising – and Dick Hudson’s just outside Bingley looked very promising indeed…and delivered on that promise.

We both chose the sirloin roast and it was, and this is a big call, possibly the best-tasting piece of roast beef I’ve ever had. It was so good I could forgive the overcooked broccoli. And the best bit? Free-flowing gravy for the Yorkshire puddings.

After lunch it was back to Grassington via Ilkley Moor, Mackenzie’s Farm Shop (where again my powers of resistance were admirable as the candles, books, and other bits and pieces were very tempting) near Blubberhouses (just how cool is that name?) and Pateley Bridge.

The road between Pateley Bridge and Grassington was also listed as being one of the most scenic drives in Yorkshire – and whoever it was that compiled the list was not wrong!

After such a big lunch we stayed in tonight and nibbled on the cheese we’d bought at Hawes and some baguette.

Author: Jo

Author, baker, sunrise chaser

25 thoughts

  1. Hi Jo – certainly a very “Bronte” type town and vibe with all the old stone buildings. I was surprised at the steep streets because I always think if England as being dead flat for some reason…

    1. The Dales are all fells (steep barren-sided hills) and valleys. This part of Yorkshire is all up and down. The Cotswolds are flatter, but that’s also along a ridge.

  2. Day walks in England are awesome! We’ve done a couple in the South Downs, meandering along! Love the name of the bookstore! The stripey badger. Lots of personality in that name and in the towns. I love to get immersed as you did in walking a town. We’ve found pub foot in the UK has really improved, so I’m not surprised it was a great Sunday lunch. But where the heck has my head been – never seen a sign for one of these farm shops, and that is just up my alley!! Bernie

    1. Being on foot is the best way to see a place, isn’t it? As for farm shops, I reckon we can sniff them out lol. A random question, I know I should know your blog but when I try to get there from your avatar I get an error message. What’s the actual name of it so I can follow?

  3. Those scenic views are incredible and your Sunday lunch looks scrumptious! These posts are really making me want to travel abroad… now if only I could get my husband to agree.

  4. How interesting to visit the Bronte house! I love such museums, to see how people lived and worked in the past. And the areas look fantastic for walking. I love those quaint villages. And the green fields! (But of course not as nice as in West Cork, lol!)

  5. I visited Haworth and was immediately transported back to the days of the Brontes. I shed a few tears at the church graveyard as that is what likely caused the early death of these talented sisters. I also walked out on the moors where the wind blew the heather around and I swear I heard Heathcliff calling for Catherine. it was a magical day for me. One I will never forget. You took some wonderful photos.

  6. Oh Jo, you’ve made me want to visit Haworth and the area now! Your photos and descriptions soothed my soul and I could just picture being there with you. Thanks so much for the inspo and I’ll now be adding a trip north when we visit England in May! I’m so interested to see how the Brontes lived and explore the area.

  7. Gosh, you so need to write a guide book…you are a marvellous writer and picture taker too. I may never travel to the UK (sadly) but with you as a blogging friend, I see lots more of the country of my heritage close up with stories attached. Great to have your blog shared on Wednesday’s Words and Pics this week. Thank you so much for your support. I hope to see you next week too. Denyse.

  8. Hi Jo, what a beautiful area to explore and I would love to visit this area in depth. I feel such an affinity with the Dales (perhaps I lived there in another life). The history, the countryside, the buildings fill me with joy. Thanks for writing about your travels and I agree with Denyse, you should write a travel book. x

    1. There is so much more on my list of places to visit in the Dales and also down near Bradford. I hope you get there one day.

  9. I love the insight into the Brontes’ lives that their house/museum created. The photos of the surrounding scenery was also very inspirational. Life must have been so hard for everyone living in that area whether due to financial reasons or just the battle with the elements. Beautiful photos and excellent descriptions- thank you for sharing

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